5/6 Being in the Right Place at the Right Time

We walked up to the other end of town at Hontanas and had a pilgrim meal at a restaurant owned by a warm and gracious Spanish man.  A pilgrim meal is a first course...usually salad, soup, or vegetables followed by a second course...an entree like chicken with fries, followed by dessert, something like a piece of fruit, an ice cream bar, or flan.  Wine is also included and the meal usually costs 12 or 13€.  We needed to get some sleep because if the weather cooperated, we were going to go out for another moonlight walk on the Meseta.  It did.  I got up at 4 am and took a peek outside to see a glorious, very full moon.  

We were on the path by 4:20 and all of us thought there was more light tonight than there was last night.  We walked about 6 miles and were outside of Castrojeriz when we came across the ruins of the old monastery/convent San Anton.  The monastery was governed by monks who cared for pilgrims with the disease San Anton's Fire.

From San Anton, it was a short walk of 4 kilometers to Castrojeriz, but the sun had not come up yet.  We were hoping to find an open bar, but the entire town, which is built on a hillside, was asleep and the one fellow we saw said no one was awake to make coffee.

We left Castrojeriz and watched as our moon dropped below the horizon.  Thank you moon.  I loved the show you put on for us.  I feel grateful to have been here to see it.  Good night moon.

Once you leave Castrojeriz, you begin a climb up Alto de Mostelares.  The climb is about 1 kilometer with a grade of 12%.  The views are stunning...a quilt of green and brown blocks.  The descent has a grade of 16% and promises to put your knees to the test.  I saw many people serpentine down the descent.

I love the Meseta.  Many pilgrims opt to skip this section...in August and September temperatures can easily climb into triple digit territory.  But there is a welcome predictability about this straight, wide open section that allows you to meditate and think about things.

I came to San Nicholas, an albergue that I had hoped to stay at.  It is run by Italian volunteers and only sleeps 12 pilgrims.  There is no electricity, you sleep on mats on the floor, everyone helps with a communal meal and your feet are washed while your journey is being blessed.

We are staying at Hobar Municipal albergue in Itero de la Vega.  We had a fine bocodilla with a couple of glasses of wine and are happy about sleeping in until 6 am tomorrow..  I had to laugh at Francine...she got a call from her daughter who was traveling and was relieved to know that her daughter was safe and having a good time.  Good mama...when she got off the phone she turned to me and began explaining...in a barrage of Dutch.  I didn't want to ruin the sweetness of the moment...I just smiled and nodded.