5/8 30 Kilometers of Grit

We had splurged a little on the hotel at Villalcázar de Sirga.  Haha...our "splurge was the shared room that cost 22€ each for the night instead of the usual 10-15€ we pay at an albergue.  We had a private bath and linens on the beds and in the bath.  Luxury.  Polly was looking forward to a good night's sleep, but I had 2 glasses of delicious sangria and slept like a rock...that snored enough to keep Polly awake.  I may be relegated to an albergue on the other side of town from now on.

The Spanish people are warm and friendly, but I wonder how some of these small towns like the thousands of pilgrims that pass through on the way to Santiago.  Camilla sometimes works until midnight and is at the restaurant at 9 the next morning.  It is hard work to feed and house all of the pilgrims passing through, they must be exhausted at times.  But...I seem to get "Buen Camino"...the greeting offered to a passing pilgrim, more often from the older generation.  A man in his 70s or 80s will get that look in his eye and greet you with enthusiasm and emotion.  He has walked the Camino.  I know that look.  I have seen it on faces when I am bike touring and someone opens up to tell me about a similar experience they have had in their life.  It pulls up memories that give them joy and THAT is what I see in their look...joy.

Today's walk took us just over 30 kilometers to Ledigos.  Polly and Francine did not care for it much, but on the long stretches where there are no towns to stop and have a second or third cafe con leche, I put the ear buds in and find the music just what I need...inspirational, sometimes even emotional.

I walked with a French woman named Valerie for a short while.  She was very nice and told me a little about the route Le Puy en Velay.  I confess I am already thinking of another trip over here.  The Portuguese route and the Norte route are also high on the list.  I only have a few years left where I will be physically capable of doing something like this...gotta make the most of it.

I love seeing all of the red poppies in bloom right now.  While I was walking, I also saw one bloom here or there in the middle of some rocky soil.  Harsh conditions, but perhaps their grit will keep them alive.  I hope so.